Saturday, July 23, 2011

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

EAST COAST INVASION - TORONTO - THE FINAL CHAPTER

Toronto definitely is one of the most high-energy cities in Canada. I hadn't been there for years, and I was very excited to go back and get an "adult perspective" on the concrete jungle. Once my time drew to an end in Ottawa, I hopped on a plane to Toronto, thanks to a $45 seat sale from Westjet. There was no way of preparing myself for the number of good restaurants, bars and parties in this city... Oh yeah, and I went during Pride.



Toronto is defined by its many neighborhoods - much like its 'sister from another mister' city, NYC. On my first night, I was introduced to what is now my favorite neighborhood/street - Queen Street West.

My friends and I hit up an Italian spot called Terroni, which also happens to have one other Toronto location on Adelaide, and one in L.A. While I usually take photos of my food at restaurants, the food was so good I'd wolfed it down before I had time to pick up a camera.



This restaurant has a constantly evolving menu. With that said, I have my fingers crossed for whoever reads this, because I really hope you'll have the opportunity to get the same dish I did.

Spaghetti al Limone = GAME CHANGER.
Imagine spaghetti-gone-lemony: zippy and acidic from lemon and capers, savoury from spinach and olive oil, and kicked to a whole new level with Parmigiano Reggiano. This dish was so fresh and delicious... and so simple! This is proof that simplicity done well can have gourmet results.


This place also has killer desserts... I managed to catch the ice cream "hot dog" we ordered before it was devoured:



WINNING QUALITIES:


- A light, sweet brioche bun
- Creamy vanilla gelato
- Dark chocolate shavings







OTHER RESTAURANTS NEAR QUEEN STREET WEST

If you're looking for something different..
- Kalendar - This restaurant has a middle-eastern feel - the menu features 7 "scrolls"; a crepe/roti packed primarily with curried fillings. This is the place to go on a hot day in Toronto (there are many of those days!) as this place has an awesome patio.




If you're looking for Mexican...
- Milagro -
This place has the BEST Mexican I've had in a while. The menu is extensive, the atmosphere feels like a party, and the drinks pack a punch.

This drink is a "tequila mojito", spiked with jalapeno peppers. I dare anyone to try this. If you drink it too fast, you WILL choke on it. It is BURNING HOT, but it is HEAVEN if you sip it. Mix the jalapeno heat with gold tequila, agave syrup, and some mystery ingredients, and BAM - you've got yourself one hell of a bevvy. I'm going to say this is similar to a Michelada - one drink is delicious, 7 will burn a hole in your stomach.













If you're looking to party, dive-bar style...

Ted's Collision - The only thing this place is lit by is drippy, white candles, sticking outside of empty 26's of booze. When I went, there was a live band covering classic rock songs one minute, then doing a rock rendition of electro-pop jams the next. There's a covered patio in the back, with about 4 picnic benches and a big tapestry of Barbarella on the brick exterior of the building. This is a place where many hours (and many beers) can go very quickly.


--------------------

Now, I will attempt to "zip it" about food, and talk about the real pressing issue here: PRIDE.

This party knocks the socks off any other party in Canada, and I am CERTAIN of that. Over 1 million people come to Toronto to celebrate, and there are so many parties happening, it'd be literally impossible to go to all of them.

YOUR GUIDE TO HAVE A SUCCESSFUL PRIDE WEEK:

- USE TRANSIT.. It's FUN: Driving sucks in Toronto as it is, and drinking/driving is even worse. Also, cabs are generally going to cost a small fortune. Use the transit: streetcars, buses and the metro will get you wherever you need to go. Hopstop or the TTC website will give you all the directions you need.

- LISTEN TO THE LOCALS: This always speaks true, no matter where you go. I managed to hit up "Business Woman's Special" (Thanks, Romy and Michelle!) at the Augusta House in Kensington, and Big Primpin at Wrongbar on Queen St West. A big party I didn't manage to get to was called "Yes Yes Y'all", at the Annex. For my sake, please go to it next year!!!

- GO TO THE PARADE, EVEN IF YOU DON'T LIKE PARADES: I usually am not a fan, in the slightest. HOWEVER, this destroyed my view of parades as boring and repetitive. You will be dancing while you watch, and making new friends every five minutes. Just DO IT.

- CHURCH STREET IS MADNESS. - There are people partying in the street, and the bars are jam-packed and sweaty. This district of Toronto is world-renowned. My personal opinion may not be shared with others: I think you should just party outside of the bars, in the streets. There are so many people running around, and music blaring. The party goes on for what seems like forever.

- GO TO HANLAN'S POINT BEACH: This is on Toronto Island... Call me dumb, but I honestly didn't know this existed prior to coming! This particular beach is party central during pride, with tons of people having picnics and dancing in the sand. It's a clothing-optional beach, BTW.

While I could go on about the WILD TIMES that were had, I think a photo and six words can say it all:


HOT

SWEATY

MESS....

THANK YOU, TORONTO!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

LOL.




Pretty sure this dude won't care about getting a ticket.

EAST COAST INVASION - PART II - OTTAWA & AROUND TOWN


The second leg of my adventure was very exciting because I got to see my family.

I hopped on the train in Montreal and headed to a station just outside of Ottawa. While we did visit Ottawa (honorable mention: Social Restaurant & Lounge= Best Courtyard Patio), I feel the need to talk about another place.

My auntie Carol and cousin Heather took me to a cozy town called Merrickville to check out the shops. This is an extremely small town, with a strangely large population of bikers moseying around. I kid you not - Harleys & their leather-clad, biker couple counterparts were in every direction.

There are your fair share of touristy shops - the ones that make you feel a little bit weird when you go in. For example, there was a year-round Christmas shop there. I think the picture will be able to tell a story a lot better than I will:



HOWEVER... There were two places that were absolutely incredible. I would recommend anyone in the Ottawa area to check these spots out if you are a fan of food.

The first words out of my mouth when I walked into Mrs. McGarrigle's Fine Food Shop were "Ohhhh no..", because I knew my wallet (and my stomach) were in big trouble. This place is PACKED full of condiments, chocolates, pasta, cheese, and all things delicious. And the best part? There are samples for almost EVERYTHING. They bake baguettes in-house to serve with the hundreds of jams, mustards and marinades, as well as have a fully functional deli in the back. I'd call it a "Foodie IKEA".
Storefront photo, courtesy of Rideau Heritage Route.

I ended up walking out with a jar of Mrs. McGarrigle's Lemon-Dill Mustard, and a "Garlic Expressions" Classic Vinaigrette that you drizzle over warm bread, use on salads, you name it. It's decadent. I really hope this store ships to BC.



After checking out some bikers and a few more shops, we managed to work up an appetite... Despite all the samples ingested, as previously mentioned. We headed over to The Yellow Canoe Cafe, which has a killer patio and even better food. They make all of their bread in house for their top notch sandwiches, and have a massive array of sweets for after lunch.

Patio photo, courtesy of Yellow Canoe Cafe

With that said, my #1 suggestion for what to get here is boozy (surprise, surprise). Get the Sangria. It's kind of like fruit salad in a glass, so that constitutes as a meal in itself... right? It was a whole lot of very berry goodness, loaded (no pun intended) with strawberry slices, blueberries and raspberries. This will taste even better on the patio, while you're taking in the sunshine.


This is your prescription for relaxation, my friends.


The remainder of my time was spent somewhere even more relaxing - my uncle Bob & Auntie Carol's place. It had been 10 years since I'd been there. I am already trying to think up reasons to go back and spend more time with my amazing family and wonderful second cousins I got to hang out with for the first time.




Thank God for this portion of the trip, because I had no way to prepare for the amount of party Toronto had to offer.
TO BE CONTINUED

Friday, July 8, 2011

EAST COAST INVASION: PART I - MONTREAL

We live in big ol' country. I've been globetrotting quite a bit over the past few years, and Canadian destinations always seemed to be last on the list... Okay, to be honest, they made it nowhere near a list.

After I got invited by friends to come to Toronto Pride, I figured I might as well go for the gusto and make this a full-on excursion. We booked Montreal for a week, Ottawa for a few days, and then another week in Toronto.

The East Coast has a LOT to offer; by the end of this trip, I was in a full on quarter-life crisis about where I should be living.

I have a lot to gush about, so let's just focus on one city at a time.


A RECIPE FOR EAST COAST DEBAUCHERY

the bare necessities

- Westjet Airlines - I'm a dedicated fan of these guys. They come out with seat sales ALL the time, especially in the Eastern provinces. I flew from Ottawa to Toronto for $80... All taxes in!
- VRBO (Vacation Rentals by Owner) - Just like the name says, it's rentals by the owner. We'll get into more details about this in a moment...
- VIA Rail Canada - This train is super relaxing, and super cheap. I got from Montreal to Ottawa in 2 hours for $35. Up that price a few more dollars and you're high rollin' in first class.



the magic makers
- Insatiable hunger and thirst for wine - Toronto and Montreal are culinary capitals in this country. Don't even think about going on vacation to these places on a diet.
- A no-holds barred approach to meeting new people. This will be the deciding factor on whether you want to feel like a tourist, or a local.
- Plans kept to a minimum, with the exception of how you are getting from city to city, and your accommodation. See above ^



FIRST DESTINATION - MONTREAL

As a bona fide Europe lover, this city called to me from across the country. After years of hearing about a magical land where cheese curds fell from the sky and "dark & handsome's" roamed the streets, it was clear this was my kind of city.

My friends and I went through VRBO to rent an apartment. I WOULD RECOMMEND THIS OVER A HOTEL, ANY DAY. Guidelines to follow are to always make sure you are close to a metro station, and if you are fortunate enough to have friends in the area, ask them if it's a good spot to be staying in.




Our apartment was MASSIVE - for Vancouverites used to living in a shoebox, it's guaranteed the spacious layouts Montreal apartments have to offer will please you as much as it pleased me. For a week, it cost $750, all in. Here's Cammy taking in the sights and sounds of our little street ;)














Not the greatest representation of this place, but I took this on the couch after a long night in the very lively streets of Montreal. Note the beer bottle.


While we did have plenty of great times in the apartment, that was only the tip of the iceberg for what this city had to offer.





MUST-GO PLACES OF THE CULINARY & BOOZY VARIETY


1. One of our first stops was at a place called La Distillerie near St Denis (an AMAZING street that everyone needs to spend some time on). Walls as black as tar, and a "cozy" setting that will make you acquainted with your neighbor, whether you like it or not. While this may sound like your average pub, there was one thing that set it apart:




Les allongés(14 oz ou pot masson)
These are not your average drinks. We are talking full-on heaven in a 14 oz mason jar. The menu is so extensive, it'll make you go cross eyed. They're a perfect quencher to Montreal's heavy duty heat.











After you've had good times in a jar from La Distillerie, I'd suggest hitting up a Vietnamese sub spot nearby called Vua (1579, rue St-Denis). This is a cheap and cheerful meal after you've likely spent a good portion of your day's budget at the previous spot.





2. It's indisputable that the #1 food talked about in Montreal is poutine, and understandably so. I was privy to try poutine like I've never had in my life, at Macaroni Bar.




TWO WORDS: GNOCCHI POUTINE.
4 years of pescetarian living went out the window at this place, all in the name of gnocchi poutine. This dish is melt in your mouth goodness, fresh out of the oven. The gravy is incredibly flavorful and the St. Guillaume cheese is to die for. It's a small enough portion that you won't feel like keeling over afterward. The restaurant is very modern and high energy, located near Avenue du Mont Royal. That street is packed full of cafe's and lounges, so it's a great area to walk off the gorge-fest that will undoubtedly happen at Macaroni Bar.











3. The Old Port in Montreal will make you feel like you've been teleported to Europe. It also is the home of MANY incredible restaurants. The honorable mention of this neighborhood would have to be L'Assomoir on Notre-Dame Ouest.


This place takes food and beverage to a new level, with a 400+ drink menu and food platters fit for a king.. No, make that 5 kings. The platters are MASSIVE.










- Custom-made cheese platter (yes, you choose your own cheese from a large variety that they have in-house).











- GLUTTONY PLATTER. Obviously not the real name of this thing, but it should've been. Roasted potatoes, prawns, chicken, beef, salad, and a medley of roasted carrots and various squash. GOOD GOD!








- A raspberry puree & vodka martini with a basil leaf and cracked pepper.




HONORABLE MENTIONS:
Resto la Banquise - This was literally my first destination after checking in to the apartment. This restaurant has so many variations of poutine, it'll make your head spin. I gorged on my veggie poutine so fast, there was no way of getting a picture. This is a MUST GO.

L'Express - My friend Eddie took me to this restaurant to show me proper French food. It did not disappoint. I literally felt like I was transported to Paris. This place will be a lot more fun to go to if you have someone that speaks French with you. Brace yourself for some serious deliciousness.






WHEN IN MONTREAL...


1. The Tam Tams are a hippie-esque hangout every Sunday during the summer in Mount Royal Park. You'll literally feel the bass from the drums - the circle is composed of dozens of people just... hittin' the bongos!





For those of you who are not bongo-enthusiasts, it's a great place to crack a beer/wine and have a picnic. It's the perfect place for people watching, catching some rays, and basically feeling utterly relaxed.











2.
The Village - This is what I'd call the "equivalent" of Davie Street in Vancouver... Except there is no comparison. This street is almost like a mini-Vegas; I can't say whether it's busier during the day or at night. It's the home to some of the craziest bars I've ever been to; for example, Sky Lounge, a 5-room club with a different music genre in each room, and a massive rooftop patio with hot tubs, is located on this street.
It's a great spot to cruise around during the day. Take advantage of the many terrasses (aka patio - they don't say patio in Montreal, I quickly learned). However, I'd say it's an even better spot at night. There is so much energy down this street, and people are so friendly.










3. Notre Dame & Old Montreal -
I made a brief mention of the Old Port earlier; this area is full of beautiful architecture. My friend Cameron and I went to Notre Dame church, which was overwhelmingly beautiful. Whether you're a church goer or not, it is absolutely worth seeing, and only $5 for admission and a tour.


Aside from the Notre Dame, this area is packed full of boutiques and delicious restaurants. You can also go during the day and walk along the boardwalk beside the St. Lawrence River, while people go by on paddleboats through the canals in the Old Port behind you.





AN HONORABLE MENTION:
- Picnic Electronik: I did not get to go to this festival... But it is LEGENDARY! For electronic music fans, this is basically an outdoor party that lasts all day until about 9 PM. From there, rumor has it many a loft party spawn from that...


THE BEST PART OF MONTREAL

Hands down, the best part about Montreal is the people. If you go in with an open mind and are ready to meet people, you will be fully embraced. Your experience will be heightened much more than it could be with a tour group or a brochure. Just be willing to start conversation and try new things. People that live in Montreal will be just as excited to meet you!

A big thank you to our many hosts in Montreal that made the trip so special...


Soundtrack to Montreal:



TO BE CONTINUED....